Shortly after Pursuit of Jade premiered, a heated debate erupted online regarding the drama's costume design. Hanfu (汉服) enthusiasts — advocates for historically accurate traditional Chinese clothing — raised objections about several design choices, arguing that the costumes mixed elements from different dynasties and included anachronistic details. The discussion quickly expanded beyond the drama itself into a broader conversation about historical accuracy, artistic license, and the role of hanfu culture in contemporary Chinese media.
To understand the controversy, some context about hanfu is necessary. Hanfu refers to the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese ethnic group, spanning thousands of years of history. Different dynasties had distinctly different clothing styles: Tang Dynasty fashion was characterized by wide sleeves, cross-collared robes, and bold colors; Song Dynasty clothing favored narrower silhouettes, subdued tones, and delicate layering; Ming Dynasty dress featured stand-up collars, horse-face skirts (马面裙), and structured outerwear. Hanfu advocates argue that mixing elements from different periods is akin to putting a Victorian bonnet with a Regency gown — technically both are "old European clothing," but historically incoherent.
The specific complaints about Pursuit of Jade centered on three main issues. First, several female characters wore hairstyles and hair accessories more consistent with Tang Dynasty fashion while their clothing followed Ming Dynasty patterns. Second, the male court officials' robes featured collar designs that did not match any single historical period. Third, and most contentiously, a few costume pieces appeared to incorporate elements of Korean hanbok design — a charge that carries significant cultural sensitivity in the East Asian context. The drama's costume designer responded by explaining that since the Dayin Dynasty is fictional, the costumes were deliberately designed as an "idealized synthesis" rather than a strict reproduction of any single dynasty's dress code.
In fairness to the production, Pursuit of Jade is far from the worst offender in the cdrama world when it comes to historical costume accuracy. Compared to many fantasy wuxia dramas that feature entirely anachronistic flowing robes, the costumes in this drama show a clear effort to maintain historical plausibility. The fabric choices, dyeing techniques, and embroidery patterns all demonstrate significant research. The costume department reportedly consulted with textile historians and used traditional silk-weaving methods for several key pieces. Yu Qianqian's wedding dress, in particular, was widely praised for its beautiful Ming-style craftsmanship.
The controversy ultimately reflects the growing influence of the hanfu revival movement in China. As more young Chinese people take an active interest in traditional clothing, their expectations for historical dramas have risen accordingly. This pressure has generally been positive for the industry, pushing productions toward higher standards of historical research. Pursuit of Jade, despite the criticism, represents a significant step forward from the historical fashion disasters of earlier cdrama eras. The debate it sparked, while sometimes heated, has contributed to greater public awareness of Chinese clothing history — an outcome that both the drama's supporters and its hanfu critics can appreciate.